We were warned, but what else could we do? There is only one way crossing Nepal! So now we can also confirm it: the “highway” between Pokhara and Kathmandu is simply horrible! Not only because the road itself it’s in really bad shape, but also the drivers are insane!
Our first plan was try to do the whole way in three days. Which at a first glance it doesn’t seem hard at all: 200 km, of which 50 were downhill, 110 “flat” and to finish a really hard 40 km uphill. Obviously we didn’t manage, but not because the cycling was hard, but because we succeeded in wasting most of the time.
It’s true that the way was fun and it again this felt like an adventure. Not sure if because I hadn’t cycled for almost a month, because Nepal is a land prone to adventures or both, but we didn’t have time to get bored!
The first day we didn’t only start amazingly late, but we also had to stop and take a group picture to send our university. We found a really beautiful place with great views. And as it took as so long to get the pictures taken, we decided to camp there. What we didn’t realize is that the cliff was used as a garbage dump, so quite a lot of people came to say hi and throw their trash. There are some things I guess they are not meant to be understood, but to spoil such a great place? Anyway, I only took pictures of the nice side; I don’t want to remember the piles of rubbish.
The second day also was not very successful in making kilometers, but something really funny happened. When we were leaving a town a drunkard started following us running. He was muttering something incomprehensible and running non-stop. He came more than a kilometer, and Goiznabar that sometimes can be a bit cruel, was going slow enough for the guy to keep running, but not too fast for the drunk to quit.
And then, just like in a zombie movie … Goiznabar gets a puncture! He couldn’t continue, not to destroy his wheel, but at the same time he didn’t want to be caught up by the guy. He started screaming for help. But we were not willing to do so. We let Karma take its course.
The next day as soon as we woke up we saw a few kids sitting really close to our tents. We thought they were there because of us, but we had just camped under some mango trees, and they were waiting for the fruits to fall down!
They were very cute and respectful. I really like how people behave in this country, they had many questions and they were talkative, but always polite and when they felt that we needed space to pack and go, they left without us saying anything.
Even though this is the main and only road between the two biggest cities in the country, the towns on the way seem quite unspoiled. People act like the people in really remote parts of India did. Kids start running to the road just to say hi, no matter what they are doing: sometimes they are naked because they interrupted the bath to run to the street and wave their hand at us!
The road is very dangerous, is in really bad condition and the drivers go way too fast. We saw some accidents and an upside-down bus. They most surprising thing is that we didn’t see more.
There is lots of traffic, especially trucks going from one city to the other. So instead of being annoyed, we took advantage of the situation and sometimes we held ourselves to them to go up. Is not very easy to do, and the chances of falling are quite big. But we are willing to risk it for the excitement of going uphill on the bike without pedaling.
And slowly we arrived to the capital, Kathmandu. Here we will stay a few days, not only to visit it, but to decide where we are going next!