Last day by the Ligurian coast

by • 20 August, 2013 • Uncategorized • Comments (0)1711


Without any news from Goiznabar, Javi and me continued one more day down the Mediterranean coast. In a way it was nice to know that we would be leaving the crowded touristic summer roads, but we still had a quite busy day.

Sleeping between the tunnels before Moneglia, we didn’t rest to much. We only got around 6 hours of sleep and we were quite excited about crossing the dangerous road. So earlier than 6 am we were already ready and waiting for the red light for cars (which gave us around 5 minutes to cross 2,5 km, Javi counted every second).

In the middle of the race through the dark passage there was a light and Javi decided to stop there, even if there were only 200 meters left. It turned out to be a camping site (only accessible through the tunnel). And there we met a guy working there who said that actually lots of cycloturists cross through there, even if in theory it is not allowed for bikes. He gave us some recommendations about where to go and told us the best moment when to start cycling again.


Once in Moneglia we had some Spaghetti for breakfast and Javi said that he didn’t want to cross the last tunnel to Cinqueterre, that instead he wanted to go up the mountain pass. So at the end we didn’t see the region I wanted to and we crossed the tunnels just for fun, because we had to go up to Braco’s mountain pass anyway.

From there all the way till Massa was quite fun, especially the beginning, which was going down the mountains, so basically downhill and with few cars. In Massa we tried to get a map of the region, but as there are no tourist information offices in this city, we didn’t succeed.



When we left this city, it was getting a bit late, so we decided to start looking for a place to camp. Our first try was a lake, but it was impossible to get there. For the second try we asked a family if we could pitch the tent for one night in their garden. They said that we couldn’t but they told us to go to a “free beach”, where we could sleep. We went there not really knowing what “free beach meant”, but soon we understood: in some places in Italy you pay to go to the seaside.





Well, we didn’t like the free beach, as it was full of people and there was a huge sign saying it was forbidden to camp, so we went back to a regional road, where we had seen an abandoned camping site.

As we entered we saw some light pointing at us, so we decided to go say hi. It was a family of Romanian Gypsies who lived there. They were nice, and even with the language barrier, we managed to communicate. Actually Javi started talking quite fast, and as if they understood they nodded at everything he said.


They said that of course there was no problem to camp there, but that we probably had to leave early because every day the police went there to kick them out. We were not sure if we wanted to sleep there, but at the end we left our prejudices aside and decided that as late as it was that was the best option.

We were so tired that we slept almost immediately, but we knew that in a few hours we had to get ready and avoid meeting the police. And it turned out to be the place where we rested the most since we entered Italy.